Samdae-jjae Son Dubu 삼대째손두부

Old reclaimed timber gives the dining room the feel of a late-1980s dongdongju rice-wine pub. Beans are ground on site for both the tofu and the soy milk, and tofu kimchi and chilled soy milk hit the table as soon as you sit down. That soy milk is also sold to take home. Eolkeun haemul sundubu, soft tofu in a spicy seafood broth, is hot and bracing, the cheonggukjang (fermented soybean stew) is not salty, and, a little unexpectedly for a tofu house, there is a crisp dubu donkatsu that some tables order alongside their stew.