Pungnyeon Dakdoritang Bonjeom 풍년 닭도리탕 본점

A layer of doenjang under the red chili sauce makes the first spoonful taste unfamiliar, then oddly savory. Dakdoritang, spicy braised chicken stew, stands as the only dish, sold in small, medium and large and served fully cooked so you can eat at once; even the breast meat slides off the bone. It sits in the Bukchang-dong food alley, 250m from City Hall Station, and takes Seoul Pay. Floury potatoes break down and thicken the sauce as it simmers. Ramyeon noodles hold up better than chewy jjolmyeon, which bloat quickly, and the leftover sauce becomes fried rice at the end. Kkakdugi is the only side, and the nineties-style hall fills with office workers and soju after work.