Mokpo Sinan No.18 Hoejip 목포신안18호횟집

Assorted live-fish sashimi and lobster sit in the middle of the table, ringed by a 60-plate spread so large the dishes get stacked in layers. More than two-thirds of those side plates are seafood: raw shellfish, nakji tangtangi (chopped raw octopus), sauce-glazed octopus skewers, salmon and abalone. With this many dishes the closing spicy fish stew is easy to neglect, yet here the maeuntang is seasoned right too. Sitting by Yeonan Pier, the dining room has windows onto the sea.