Manseon Sikdang 만선식당

In Mokpo, bandaengi (a small, oily herring-like fish) is also called songeo-hoe, and here it is sliced thin with the bones in and dipped in makjang, a paste of doenjang and sesame oil. Expect a few tiny bones. The side dishes are neither salty nor sweet. There are roughly six tables across two floors, shoes off upstairs, plus a separate waiting room, and parking is along nearby streets. Braised butterfish uses lightly dried fish and goes with rice. Ureok-ganguk, a clear soup made from semi-dried rockfish, is lightly peppery and works as a finisher or a hangover cure. Sihwa Village and Yeonhui's Supermarket are within walking distance.