Maendorong Haejangguk 맨도롱해장국

Under a sign so faded the letters are nearly gone, this old shop cooks Jeju soups: gaeng-iguk, bomal-guk, mom-guk. First-timers tend to order the gaeng-iguk, a clear seaweed soup with ground crab, refreshing, with bits of shell you notice now and then. Several people who tried both liked the mom-guk better. Thickened with gulfweed and made with pork, it tastes like a gentle yukgaejang. The bomal kalguksu holds two abalone and plenty of sea snails, and seasoning across the menu runs strong.