Jongno Halmeoni Kalguksu Jongno Bonjeom 종로할머니칼국수 종로본점

Dumplings are being folded by hand right by the entrance, and the kalguksu noodles are kneaded in-house too: broad, thick and rough-edged, closer in bite to sujebi (torn dough soup) than to thin noodles. The anchovy broth tastes plain at first and settles into its seasoning as you eat. The kimchi, somewhere between fresh geotjeori and ripened cabbage kimchi, carries much of the meal. Kalmandu-guk adds one meat and one kimchi dumpling, while kaljebi (noodles plus dough flakes) and half-and-half orders are possible as well. Lunch lines usually clear in about 10 minutes thanks to quick turnover, and drivers park at the Jongmyo lot and walk. The shop has stood in Ikseon-dong for over 40 years, and the building shows it.