Jeil Gopchang 제일곱창

Staff grill the modum gopchang (mixed offal platter) of small intestine, large intestine, heart and tripe right at the table, a routine this Wangsimni gopchang-alley shop has kept since 1973. Lean, springy heart is ready first, while the small and large intestines stay on the grill until their fat has properly browned. Before the meat, raw tripe and liver arrive with nakji sundubu jjigae, a spicy soft-tofu stew holding a whole small octopus. Green-onion kimchi cooked on the same grill and a tart house sauce cut through the richer cuts. When people are queuing, extra orders are often turned down, so order generously at the start. Leftover kimchi goes into fried rice, or ramyeon closes the meal.