Imone Son Kalguksu 이모네 손칼국수

Start with a fingernail-sized dab of dadegi, the chili paste on the table. Stir in a spoonful at once and the whole bowl turns almost too hot to finish. The anchovy broth is thick rather than clear; taste it plain first, then with dadegi, then with black pepper, and a bowl that is mostly noodles stays interesting. Where the hand-cut noodles run thick, they chew like sujebi dough flakes. Kimchi comes two ways, fresh geotjeori and well-fermented, and the fermented one is now a Chinese import. The menu is kalguksu, a large size and rice, and even the regular bowl is big.