Iljin Agujjim 일진아구찜

Big pieces of monkfish arrive with the grain of the flesh still visible, tender yet springy and free of any fishy smell. Bean sprouts stay crunchy under a thick, clinging chili sauce, which is why plain rice gets ordered on the side. Even the mild level of this agujjim (spicy braised monkfish) hits hard for anyone not used to spice. Cheongpomuk, a soft mung bean jelly among the side dishes, gives the mouth a break, and the leftover sauce gets turned into fried rice at the end. Weekday dinners draw a line, late arrivals can find it sold out, and when orders pile up the dish takes a long time to reach the table even after you sit down.