Gyeongnam Agu 경남아구

Agujjim, monkfish braised with bean sprouts in red sauce, is sized one step up from most places: two or three people who would order a small elsewhere get a medium here. Fish and sprouts run about half and half and the bones are taken out, though some longtime regulars grumble that there is less monkfish and more sprouts than there used to be. Fried rice is made in the kitchen and arrives on its own plate instead of being stir-fried in your leftover sauce. The sikhye served at the end is sweet and rich, and in winter it is also sold in 1.5-liter bottles.