Ildeung Sikdang 일등식당

Only one dish comes out of this kitchen: ppyeo-haejangguk, pork-bone hangover soup, in regular or special size, and regular is already generous. The meat is simmered until it falls from the bone, with plenty of ugeoji cabbage greens. Compared with chain-restaurant versions the broth is clear and restrained. The first spoonful tastes plain, and the savoriness builds as you eat. Extra rice comes from the self-service station for mixing into the soup. This Mangwon-dong spot has been handed down through generations for more than 30 years, and it shows in the wobbly chairs and less-than-spotless tables.