Hwanggeum Kongbat 황금콩밭

House-made tofu sits between silken and firm: soft, yet it keeps its shape when lifted with chopsticks. Saeng-dubu is the plain block with no seasoning, while dubu-jjageuli, a thick tofu stew, carries so much Jeju pork that one bowl of rice runs out before it does. The building is a converted old house, dinner is course-only, and the lot fits about three cars with enforcement on side streets. Tofu balls, basket-pressed sokuri-dubu and cheonggukjang with whole, crumbly beans and a mild smell are also on the menu. Side dishes change daily, and a very hot green chili sometimes hides among them.