Heuktodamgol 흙토담골

Gardens, rows of sauce crocks and a pond surround the hanok buildings, with pavilions and wooden platforms scattered about, so you end up exploring the grounds before thinking about food. The set covers the table with more than 20 side dishes, stone-pot rice, doenjang stew and a stew of ground soybeans, and steamed cabbage is wrapped around makjang paste. The spread leans on vegetables, so meat lovers add bulgogi, and bori-gulbi, dried yellow corvina, is served to eat over barley-tea rice broth. The kimchi has a strong salted-seafood note. Weekends need a reservation.