Han-gane Bulgogi 한가네불고기

Sit down and the day's set meal simply arrives; there is no ordering dish by dish. The main rotates by weekday among gochujang bulgogi, jeyuk-bokkeum (spicy stir-fried pork), braised mackerel and dakdoritang (spicy braised chicken), and the soup changes daily as well. The room off Insadong-gil is small with tables close together, and a line forms at busy times. Diners of every age sit beside travelers from abroad over the same set, and the owner greets everyone loudly and cheerfully. Everything tastes home-cooked, and side dishes other than the main are refilled on request. The bulgogi is lightly seasoned, not sweet or salty, so it works best with kimchi and namul piled onto the rice.