Gyeongju Jeonbok Haemul Ttukbaegi 경주전복해물뚝배기

Jeonbok haemul ttukbaegi packs in enough seafood to pass for a single-serving seafood stew, and the broth has a peppery bite. Haemul sundubu ttukbaegi, seafood soft tofu, is much gentler; ask for Cheongyang chilies on the side if you want heat. Squid jeotgal, salted squid, comes with sheets of laver among the side dishes, and wrapping a little of it with rice tends to call for a second bowl of rice. It is a walk from the back gate of Sono Calm Gyeongju, and the windows look out on Bomun Lake.