Gaeseong Mandu Gung 개성만두 궁

Behind the front window of this hanok in an Insa-dong alley, staff fold large Gaeseong-style dumplings by hand, a craft the family has kept for three generations. The wrappers are thin enough to show the filling, yet their closely pleated edges hold the heavy stuffing together in hot broth. Each mandu-guk holds six big dumplings in a clear brisket broth: the kimchi version brings crunch and gentle sourness, while the meat version stays mild with pork, tofu and chives. Other bowls add small pinched joraengi rice cakes or slices of garaetteok, and mandu jeongol, a hot pot simmered at the table with kimchi and meat dumplings, suits groups. Expect a queue at lunchtime; inside, exposed rafters and wooden posts frame the rooms and the main hall. Dongchimi (chilled radish water kimchi), yeolmu kimchi and kkakdugi come on the side.