Gabojeong 가보정

The marinade on the hanwoo yangnyeom-galbi has had most of its sugar taken out, and diners split between those who say it lets the beef show and those who find it flat. The hanwoo saeng-galbi, unmarinated, is heavily marbled and tender. The weekday lunch special is two pieces of marinated rib with doenjang jjigae and rice. Side dishes run long, and the fried eggplant salad and the shrimp-and-broccoli salad get singled out among them.