Dongkareum 동카름

Tucked into an old house deep in Sinchon-ri village, the place is easy to miss, yet from the tables the sea sits right outside the window. Nakji bokkeum, stir-fried octopus, starts from a chili-powder heat, and you can ask for it milder when ordering. Rice is ordered separately and stirred into what is left of the stir-fry with bean sprouts and crumbled laver. The tart cucumber and seaweed cold soup that comes alongside takes the edge off.