Daedong Banjeom 대동반점

Jjamppong is cooked in batches: a big wok fries pork, squid and seafood over high heat, the broth goes in, and bowls go out in a row to everyone in the same round. The red soup is sharp and brisk rather than thick or starchy, and the noodles, thinner than standard Chinese-Korean ones, pick up the broth fast. Try a few mouthfuls before stirring in the chili paste on the table; it seems mild at first, then the sweat starts on your forehead.