Cheolgil Wang Galbisal 철길왕갈비살

The name recalls the railway that once ran past this corner of Hongdae. The tracks are gone, but the grill house has served beef rib meat for more than 25 years. Thick-cut galbisal goes over charcoal either marinated or salt-grilled, with slices of sweet potato roasting beside it. Doenjang jjigae, a soybean-paste stew, comes with the meat, and many diners order a second bowl with rice as the finish, while naengmyeon cold noodles are the other way out. Stir-fried kimchi and dongchimi radish water kimchi are self-serve, and the steamed egg arrives trailing smoke. The dining room is large enough that waits are rare, parking is ample, and dogs may sit indoors with you.