Yetnal Son Jjajang 옛날손짜장

The noodles are kneaded and pulled by hand, so a single strand changes thickness along its length, and that gives both the gan-jjajang and the jjamppong a satisfying chew. Even so, the glutinous-rice tangsuyuk matters here as much as the noodles: thick pork in a sticky rice coat, more chewy than crisp, with a sauce neither too sweet nor too sour. Jaengban-jjajang is noodles and seafood tossed together in the wok until they pick up a smoky edge.