Yeongdong Gamjatang 영동감자탕

Soybean pulp (kongbiji) and perilla powder turn this gamjatang broth pale and thick instead of the usual red. Under the nutty bean flavor sits a savory edge reminiscent of instant ramyeon broth, and the long-simmered pork spine meat slides off the bone at a touch. Spice comes in levels, though even the mild one has a kick. Add sujebi (torn dough) or ramyeon noodles midway so the thick broth clings to them, then finish with fried rice. Lines form at mealtimes near Hongdae but move quickly, and the whole party must arrive before being seated.