Yangsan Dwaeji-gukbap 양산돼지국밥

The broth arrives unseasoned, so salt goes in first and the bowl is tuned at the table. Unlike the heavy Busan style, the soup is clear and clean with almost no porky smell. Stirring in dadaegi, a chili paste, halfway through adds a sharper edge without much burn. Lean meat and well-trimmed innards come in generous amounts, and the sundae, blood sausage, is packed with filling rather than mostly glass noodles. Suyuk baekban, a boiled pork set meal, brings a large plate of meat that goes best with the napa cabbage kimchi rather than the radish kind.