Ujak Seolleongtang 우작설렁탕

Down a flight of stairs near the Nambu Bus Terminal, a 30-year-old shop serves seolleongtang, ox-bone soup, in a clear rather than milky broth. It tastes plain at first, then builds a richness that leaves a slick of fat on the lips. Even the regular size carries plenty of beef, and the thin wheat noodles on the side stretch it into a full meal. The clear, tangy kkakdugi (radish kimchi) is its natural match. Dogani jeongol, chewy knee cartilage and tender brisket dipped in soy sauce, ends with seolleongtang broth simmered in the same pot. The basement entrance sign is easy to miss.