Suyeonsanbang 수연산방

Writer Lee Tae-jun wrote much of his fiction in this hanok, now a designated Seoul folk heritage house that his granddaughter runs as a traditional teahouse. Seats spread across the main house, the annex, the wooden-floored hall and a tree-filled courtyard, where tables fill first on fine days. Patbingsu leans on the nutty taste of red beans rather than sweetness, and the pumpkin and milk bingsu never taste watery because they are made with pure milk. Coffee is not sold, every guest orders one item, and seating is limited to two hours. On weekend afternoons, put your name on the waiting list as soon as you arrive. The Seongbuk-gu museum of art next door fills the wait.