Sinan Bapsang 신안밥상

Mackerel braised under a heap of aged kimchi, wrapped in gim seaweed with a dab of salted hairtail innards (galchi sokjeot), carries a bowl of rice quickly at this home-style baekban spot in Jeungsan-dong. Jeyuk bokkeum, spicy stir-fried pork, has a clean marinade that mixes well into rice, and stews such as cheonggukjang (fermented soybean) and croaker jjigae change daily. Rice and soup come in generous portions, and ordering steamed egg can bring an extra bowl of rice. Prices recently rose by one or two thousand won a portion, and the small room is easy for solo diners.