Pujuok 푸주옥

Salt goes in from the very first spoonful, since the pale, milky broth carries surprisingly little fat. Each bowl of seolleongtang (ox bone soup) holds a few thin slices of beef and a bundle of somyeon noodles to finish before the rice is added. More than thirty years near Gyodae Station have given the place a crowd that shifts with the clock: older regulars at lunch, families in the evening and on weekends, and late-night drinkers looking for a hangover bowl. Kkori gomtang, oxtail soup, makes the richer choice on a cold night, and mul and bibim naengmyeon appear only in summer.