Pad Krapow 팟카파우

Up a narrow staircase off a Sinheung Market alley in Haebangchon, a tiny second-floor room serves pad krapow and tom yum goong. Pad krapow is stir-fried pork with holy basil over rice and a fried egg, and spooning on chilies pickled in fish sauce, a little at a time, brings out the savoriness and heat. Seats are few, so most people join the remote queue and wait nearby.