Neunggol Maeuntang 능골매운탕

Once it boils, you start on the broth and the sujebi, but the best part of the pot comes later. The heavy iron pot holds its heat, the dough's starch thickens the broth until it is nearly eojuk, fish porridge, and that is when noodles or rice go in. Choose catfish, bagasari (Korean bullhead) or a mix of the two; freshwater crabs are charged per crab added. The dakdoritang, spicy chicken stew, has to be booked a day ahead and tastes sharp like the fish stew rather than sweet. For weekend lunch, arriving right at opening avoids the wait.