Nanhyang 난향

People come here for hwangtae kalguksu as breakfast, so a line forms at the door early, and on weekends or holidays the wait can run close to an hour. There are five or six tables and one room, and nothing is cooked until the order is in, so even after sitting down the food takes a while. The broth is pale and thick with dried pollack and mussel, and the hand-cut noodles come in a big pile. The only other dish is a spicy buckwheat jeonbyeong. The pickled radish on the side is made with yuja and smells faintly of citrus, and it disappears faster than the house kimchi.