Moljil Meat Restaurant 몰질 식육식당

It started out as a bokjiri (puffer-fish soup) shop, and these days the neighborhood orders jjamppong while travelers order the bokjiri. The jjamppong skips seafood for thick pork, cabbage and shiitake, so it tastes closer to kimchi stew with wheat noodles in it: savory, a little sweet, not spicy. The bokjiri arrives with springy puffer fish under a mountain of vegetables, and buckwheat sujebi, hand-torn dough, can be added. The side dishes laid out differ depending on whether the table orders jjamppong alone or bokjiri.