Minjeong Sikdang 민정식당

Getting here means cutting through a market and into a lane of villas and houses, where a converted home serves gomtang, slow-cooked beef soup. The milky broth is rich but clean, and someori-gomtang (beef head soup) and dogani-tang (knee cartilage soup) come with chewy wheat noodles inside; heap in the chopped scallions. For drinks, the table turns to suyuk jeongol (boiled beef hot pot) or fried stuffed chilies.