Mapo Wonjo Tteokbokki 마포 원조 떡볶이

Thick garaetteok, long cylinder rice cakes, absorb a sweet-spicy gochujang sauce all the way through and stay chewy in the middle. The heat is gentle and familiar. Add twigim (fried snacks) or sundae (blood sausage) for a full meal, or drop in for a snack on the way home from work. The shop has held the same spot in Dohwa-dong for decades, and its worn chairs and fixtures show it. Gongdeok Station is about 400 meters away.