Golmok Tteokbokki 골목떡볶이

Golmok's soup tteokbokki arrives in a ramen-sized bowl: soft wheat rice cakes and fish cake sitting in a sweet, fairly spicy broth you eat with a spoon. The shop has been making it near Munjeong Station for 27 years, and the taste recalls old school-gate snack stalls. Glutinous-rice sundae (Korean blood sausage) is for dipping into that broth, and the fried yakimandu dumplings turn soft if you leave them in it for a minute or two. Staff will tell a pair that one portion is enough, so two people usually add sundae or dumplings instead of a second bowl. Service is self-serve: take a tray, collect your order at the counter and carry it to your table.