Joga-ne Namwon Chueotang Bonjeom 조가네남원추어탕 본점

Namwon-style chueotang, a loach soup thickened with doenjang, has most of the fish's muddy note cooked out. Hikers coming down from Cheonggyesan stop here. Stirring in plenty of garlic and garlic chives settles the seasoning. The Jogane set adds pine-needle tofu, fried loach, and black garlic, with rice tinted yellow, apparently by turmeric. The fried loach, seasoned with a curry-like spice, runs soggy and oily. The portion that comes in the set is plenty. Among the side dishes, salted oyster jeotgal stands out.