Jeongdam Myeongga Namwon Chueotang 정담명가 남원추어탕

A machine by the entrance puffs fresh ppeongtwigi, rice crackers, every day, and the waiting area keeps a supply of them next to a wood stove. The chueotang, loach soup, is the thick Namwon style and gets better the more garlic and chives you add. The set meal adds smoked-duck salad, fried loach and tofu with kimchi, but the salad overlaps with the standard side dishes, and a plain bowl of chueotang still makes a full table.