Hongje-dong Udon Guksu 홍제동 우동국수

Thin, chewy noodles rather than thick Japanese-style udon anchor every bowl at this Galhyeon-dong noodle shop on the road from Gusan Station toward Seooreung. The signature sundubu udon adds soft tofu and bean sprouts to a clear, mild broth; despite expectations it carries very little chili heat. Eating the noodles first shows off the clean stock, and breaking the tofu into the soup makes it gradually softer. Buchu udon swaps in wilted garlic chives for a green aroma, and plain udon is simply stock and noodles. In summer, kongguksu arrives in thick, nutty cold soybean milk that clings to the noodles far longer than a thin broth would. The shop also goes by the nickname Hongsunu, even though Hongje-dong in its name is a different neighborhood.