Haemiru 해미루

The dumplings are folded by hand in a kitchen you can see from the tables. Pan-fried as gun-mandu, they come out crisp with juice pooling inside, worth a plate of their own even if you came for the hot pot. The mandu-jeongol broth is clear and mild; it only comes alive once some of the dadaegi chili paste on the table is stirred in. For two, gun-mandu plus a two-portion hot pot leaves no room for kkwabarou, the sweet-and-sour pork.