Gyodong Jjamppong 교동짬뽕

Even at the regular spice level, this jjamppong is hard going for anyone who doesn't handle heat, and the wok smoke is strong enough to tip into a burnt taste. The squid is the large, chewy giant kind. Several diners ended up liking the jajangmyeon best: it is yuni-jajang, packed with minced meat, sweet and nutty.