Gwansan Sikdang 관산식당

Only one dish has come out of this Goheung kitchen for more than 30 years: mul naengmyeon, cold noodles in broth. The broth arrives as a slushy sherbet of ice crystals, and a generous layer of ground perilla seed on top gives the cold soup a nutty, toasty edge that sets it apart from most naengmyeon. The noodles are moderately chewy, served with a boiled egg and seasoned radish. Service ends when ingredients run out, so arriving before lunch hour is the safer plan. Its spot in the center of Goheung town fits easily into a day around Nokdong Port or Palyeongsan Mountain.