Gukhwa Hoegwan 국화회관

The house-made snail ssamjang has big pieces of river snail in it, salty and nutty without being harsh, and generous spoonfuls on every leaf wrap never feel like too much. The paste and the cheonggukjang, a pungent fermented soybean stew, are both topped up when they run out; the tangy snail salad is the one dish that is not refilled. Adding spicy nakji-dwaeji jumulleok, octopus and pork in chili sauce, turns the meal into perilla-leaf wraps of rice and stir-fry together. The snail paste is also sold in tubs to take home.