Gongwon Kalguksu 공원칼국수

Plenty of mulchong clams, plus only green onion, garlic and crown daisy, make a simple, clean broth. The cabbage kimchi is hot enough to startle even people who like spice, and the slightly sweet radish kimchi is there to cool things down. Portions are big: two people ordering two bowls get something closer to a washbasin, so if bossam or dumplings are joining the table, ask how much noodles to order first.