Gim Makhoe 김막회

Perilla leaves and sheets of seaweed come stacked beside a spread of mixed raw fish, so every bite becomes a small wrap. Even the small kkaennip makhoe hansang (perilla raw-fish table) is enough for four to share, because sides arrive with the fish. Cooked plates include crisp grilled flounder with a seasoned sauce and a perilla-leaf okonomiyaki, and seafood ramyeon brings hot broth at the end. Besides soju, a perilla highball or Eolbaksa can join the table. The room in Dohwa-dong, Mapo, stays busy, though tables free up fairly quickly.