Geumgangsan Maeun Jjim Short Ribs 금강산 매운 갈비찜

Messages from soldiers paper the walls, a sign of the many army bases around Ildong-myeon. The spicy galbijjim is not a shared hot pot: everyone gets an earthenware bowl of ribs in a shallow broth over udon noodles. Heat comes in four levels; the mildest is actually quite sweet, and the hottest makes even seasoned chili eaters sweat. Somyeon noodles and bean sprouts from the self-serve bar go into the broth. The only other dish is ujok wanggalbitang, rib and ox-foot soup.