Geumdwaeji Sikdang 금돼지식당

Staff grill everything from start to finish: bon samgyeop pork belly, nunkkot moksal neck, deungmoksal and pork skin, with king oyster mushrooms in foil and green onion cooking on the same grill. Waiting-list registration is on site via CatchTable, and waits of an hour or more are common. The belly tastes rich, the neck is tender, and deungmoksal has a springy chew close to gabeuri, a cut near the shoulder. Basil, raw or grilled, comes with the meat; its scent is milder than cilantro, and trying it bite by bite shows the difference. The kimchi jjigae holds pork stewed so long it falls apart.