Dotom 도톰

True to the name, which means plump and thick, the aged pork belly and neck are cut deep, and staff grill them from the outside in before slicing. A portion is 180g, and the thickness gives each piece a springy chew. The neck is cut as thick as a steak, so its outside is seared first to hold the juices, and the freshly cut faces go back over the heat. Pickled perilla leaves, wild garlic, pickled peppers and green-onion kimchi come as standard sides, along with a free, mild soybean-pulp stew (biji-jjigae). Grilled cheese and a red gochujang stew are worth adding. To finish, naengmyeon comes either in chilled clear broth (mul) or tossed in red seasoning (bibim). The room is small and loud, evenings almost always mean a wait, and there are only a few parking spaces.