Daegu Chueotang 대구추어탕

Tubs of live loach and a row of huge cauldrons greet you at the entrance. This is Daegu-style chueotang: loach ground fine and simmered with napa-cabbage outer leaves, giving a clearer, slightly sweet broth instead of the thick perilla style. Minced garlic, chopped Cheongyang chili and jepi powder sit on the table, and the broth is worth tasting before adding any of them, especially jepi, a prickly-ash spice with a citrus-and-pepper scent.