Cheongjindong Haejangguk 청진동해장국

In the seonji haejangguk, the congealed ox blood comes on the side as one big block, a bit like a bar of chocolate, so you decide whether it goes into the soup or gets eaten on its own. The broth is clean and clear with plenty of dried radish greens. The pork spine soup hides small bone shards and needs slow, careful picking. Ppyeo jjim, braised spine, is about 3 servings, moderately spicy, and comes with a meatless radish-greens soup.