Bongsanok Seocho-dong Bonjeom 봉산옥 서초동본점

The broth is clear and lightly seasoned in the Hwanghae-do style, and next to milky beef-bone dumpling soups the mandutguk tastes light at first. Thick-skinned dumplings hold meat, mung bean sprouts and tofu, and the vegetables keep their crunch. Yeolmu-hoe guksu is the sharp counterpoint: tangy, sweet-sour noodles with young-radish kimchi and raw fish.