Andong Banjeom 안동반점

At this Chinese restaurant near Bomun Station, run by an elderly couple for more than 30 years, the signature order is japchae bap rather than jajangmyeon. Lightly spicy, wok-fired glass noodles with cabbage and mushrooms go over fried rice with a fried egg, and a small bowl of jjamppong broth comes alongside. It opens only Thursday to Sunday, lunch brings a queue, and there is no parking. Tangsuyuk is the old-school kind, thin-battered pork under a ketchup-based sweet-and-sour sauce with napa cabbage, while gogi twigim skips the sauce. Samseon jjamppong leans toward a clean seafood-and-vegetable broth.